Craftsman Studio - Blog

Sharpening - Diamond Products

admin — Sun, 09 Nov 2008 05:44:20 +0000

Diamond Types - Diamond sharpening tools are manufactured of two types of industrial diamonds – monocrystalline and polycrystalline.

Monocrystalline Diamonds: These diamond products are well suited for sharpening the tools we discuss below because they wear well and maintain a consistent grit size. This is critical in sharpening hard steels requiring a range (or sequence of grits) to achieve the final edge.
Polycrystalline Diamonds: Some products offered by diamond tool manufacturers utilize polycrystalline diamonds which fracture much as natural media used in sandpaper like aluminum oxide. This results in a constantly changing grit size. While this type of diamond is highly effective in industrial finishing applications, it is perhaps not the best choice for an expensive diamond plate due to a rapidly diminishing grit size.

Diamond Plate Types - DMT manufactures two types of monocrystalline sharpening plates - continuous and interrupted. Both types of products work well in a variety of applications. There are circumstances in which one has advantages over the other.

Continuous products: such as the DiaSharp series have the entire surface evenly coated with diamonds. Continuous surface products work best when kept wet to carry away the swarf. The lack of holes prevents tips on pointed objects such as carving tools from falling into the hole and they leave a consistent scratch pattern. We recommend these products as part of a sharpening system for Chef’s Knives, Carving Tools, Plane Irons & Chisels, Straight Razors and touching up carbide tooling.
Interrupted surface products: utilize a plastic substrate and holes in the cutting\surface which serve to collect swarf from the sharpening process. In our experience, interrupted surface products work better for chef’s knives, pocket knives and similar straight bladed tools where speed is important and water for lubrication may not be available, or convenient. We found these products to wear more quickly under heavy use and sometimes leave noticeable marks in the sharpened-surface due to the holes in the surface of the plate.

Flattening Waterstones: Customers often ask if it is appropriate to use DMT DiaSharp 8” diamond plates to flatten waterstones. On the surface this seems like a good idea, but in practical application, only the DMT Dia-Sharp D8XX 8×3x3/8 in. Diamond Plate is suitable for some waterstones. This is because the diamonds are large enough to create an “air break” between the surfaces of the waterstone and diamond plate so the two don’t stick together due to the surface attraction of the water. It should also be noted that waterstones will quickly remove the nickel holding the diamonds in place on finer DMT plates.

We recommend the DMT D8XX for use on Norton and King Brands of waterstones. The plate will quickly remove an appropriate amount of material.
We do not recommend use of this diamond plate on ceramic media waterstones such as those made by Shapton. Shapton waterstones wear very slowly due to their sharp and durable ceramic media requiring a very small amount material to be removed. Use of this plate on a Shapton product will cut away the media much too quickly and leave too rough a surface on the waterstone.

DMT, the manufacturer of the diamond plates we offer is located in Marlborough, MA.

Originally posted Wednesday, October 29th, 2008

Scraping Wood with Rob Cosman (DVD)

admin — Sun, 09 Nov 2008 05:41:10 +0000

Scrapers are a great tool …when they work. Most don’t come with an owners manual, much less instruction on how to sharpen and and use them. Sadly, they’re often relegated to a dark corner of the shop.

In this DVD, Rob reveals his secrets to getting optimal results from five common scrapers. - Card scrapers, Stanley No.80 cabinet scrapers, and three plane style tools offered by Lie-Nielsen Toolworks. The No.112 Large Scraping Plane, No.85 Cabinet Maker’s Scraper, and No.212 Small Scraping Plane (pictured below).

Correct sharpening of the blade is critical to getting fine curled shavings rather than dust. Rob takes his time shaping, sharpening and turning a burr on each of the blades with attention paid to the details of each step.

After looking over Rob’s shoulder during the sharpening process, the viewer is treated to a demonstration of procedures for installing and adjusting the blade. Naturally, Rob must show off a bit by making mounds of curly shavings from figured wood as he shows the correct posture and technique.

Scraping Wood is the manual which ideally would be supplied with each scraper - demonstrated by a professional woodworker who also happens to be an excellent instructor.

Rob is the host of a series of woodworking videos and travels extensively conducting hand tool workshops. He and his wife Kim live in Grand Bay, New Brunswick Canada.

Originally posted Wednesday, October 15th, 2008

San Diego Tool Swapmeet - Sunday Nov. 2nd, 2008

admin — Sun, 09 Nov 2008 05:39:20 +0000

Each year on the first Sunday in November starting at 6:00 AM San Diego Fine Woodworkers Association and the Rockler Woodworkers Store (8199 Clairemont Mesa Blvd., between I 805 and State Route 163) bring together dozens of sellers and hundreds of buyers to sell, trade, bargain and barter.

It’s the right place to buy or sell or trade hand and power tools, woodworking machinery, wood, finishing equipment and supplies, publications, hardware and other good stuff, and there’s no participation costs for both buyers or sellers. It’s pretty much finished by eleven, so you should get there early to make the best deals and see your woodworking and tool collecting friends. Al De Vries the event coordinator can be reached at (619) 440-6598.

Craftsman Studio will be open from 7:00 AM to 12:00 Noon in their new store location (4848 Ronson Ct, Suite L) about three blocks from Rockler.

We will have in-store Specials and offer the opportunity to try out a wide selection of hand tools from Lie-Nielsen Toolworks, HNT Gordon and others.

Check out the the latest woodworking DVD’s from Rob Cosman, Ian Kirby, and Lie-Nielsen Toolworks.

We’ll be demonstrating sharpening techniques for planes and chisels using the Shapton GlassStone series waterstones.

Happy hunting!

- Bill Kohr

Originallt posted Saturday, October 4th, 2008

Shapton Frequently Asked Questions

admin — Sun, 09 Nov 2008 05:34:48 +0000

How does Shapton GlassStone media differ from traditional man-made waterstones?

Shapton uses a finely graded ceramic media which is very hard and sharp. This results in waterstones which wear slowly and do not need pre-soaking. Another characteristic of the GlassStone series is the ability of the stone to both cut and polish at the same time. While this may sound counterintuitive, some of the ceramic particles are worn smooth while others more recently revealed are sharp. This nets out to a more polished finish with less work as you progress to finer grits.

Is there an advantage to the ceramic-on-glass construction of Shapton’s GlassStones?

As traditional waterstones wear and become thin, they also become weak and frequently crack ending their useful life. GlassStones allow full use of the media because it can be worn all the way down to the glass.

The ceramic media on the GlassStones seems pretty thin. How long will it last?

We’re frequently asked this question and it’s a little difficult to quantify. We’ve used using Shapton GlassStones in our showroom daily for an extended period of time. With proper care, we conservatively expect them to last twice as long as an equivalent set of one-inch-thick single grit traditional waterstones.

Do I need to concerned about flattening Shapton waterstones?

It depends to some degree on what you are sharpening. Plane Blades, Chisels and Straight Razors have straight blades which are very sensitive to irregularities in the surface of the waterstone. We recommend frequent flattening when sharpening these types of blades. Cutlery tends to be more forgiving (except for knives with perfectly straight blades) so flattening can be done less frequently. In our showroom we flatten after each sharpening. This way we know the stones are flat when we start to use them. Since we’re only taking off a couple thousandths of an inch with the Glass Diamond Lapping Plate, waterstone wear really isn’t a concern.

Is there a flattening option besides the Shapton Glass Diamond Lapping Plate?

We believe the Shapton Glass Diamond Lapping Plate is the best choice because of it’s precision flatness (+/- 5 microns), but the GlassStones can also be flattened using 220-320 Grit wet & dry sandpaper mounted on a flat surface such as a granite surface plate, or a piece of float glass.

What grits should I buy - I want to sharpen …?

There are no hard and fast rules and many people create their own grit sequence. Here are some suggestions:
Plane Blades & Chisels: 1000 - 4000 - 8000 Grits
Plane blades for Bamboo Rodmakers: 1000 - 6000 Grits
Cutlery: 500 - 3000 - 16000 Grits
Straight Razors: 1000 - 6000 - 16000 Grits
If you are starting with something really dull, the 500 grit stone is an excellent product.

I see you have 16,000 and 30,000 grit waterstones. Are they really necessary?

Necessary? Probably not but many people are interested in achieving the best possible results. We hear from folks sharpening straight razors, cutlery and some woodworkers who feel strongly that the added sharpness is worth the investment to step up to the super-fine grits.

I’m taking a class, What is the best way to transport my GlassStones?

Wrapped in a small towel is a good approach. If you prefer something more elegant, you may want to consider one of the Shapton Set Holders. They store three GlassStones in the base. Flip it over and it acts as a stone holder for sharpening with plenty of clearance for your fingers. Remind us when you order and we’ll include a Shapton Velcro Strap at no charge to keep everything tidy and secure. (Sets already come with the strap).

I have friends with the Shapton Pro stones. How do the GlassStones compare?

GlassStones were developed specifically for the US market based upon experience gained from the original Pro Series. GlassStones differ in that they cut more quickly, particularly in the tougher steels such as cryogenically treated A2 common in Lie-Nielsen and Hock and Veritas blades. They are also engineered to be significantly less costly by employing a glass base. This glass base provides protection for the sharpening media avoiding the need for added thickness and additional packaging found in Pro Stones which adds to their cost.

Why don’t you offer the Shapton Pro Stones?

We believe the Shapton GlassStones will produce the best results at the lowest cost for 99% of our customers. We’ve also found that many current users Shapton Professional Stone are migrating to the GlassStones because they cut faster.

Additionally, there is confusion in the marketplace concerning the Shapton Professional Stones. Both genuine Professional Stones manufactured for the US market and Grey Market Shapton waterstones of a different composition manufactured for the Japanese market are being sold as Professional Stones. Grey-Market stones are not the same product and not warranted by Shapton in the USA. To be safe, purchase only from an Authorized Shapton Dealer.

Originally posted Friday, October 3rd, 2008

Mastering the Dovetail Saw by Rob Cosman

admin — Sun, 09 Nov 2008 05:31:10 +0000

Cutting dovetails by hand involves a saw appropriate for the task - but which one?

In this DVD, Rob answers this question by demonstrating a variety of saws. He offers comments on the pro’s and cons of Gents Saws, Japanese “pull” saws, and those of the “pistol grip” design. He even demonstrates how to file the teeth of a gents saw to improve the way it cuts.

When you’ve reached this point in the video, you likely have a pretty good idea of which saw you want to purchase for the job. …but Rob’s just getting started.

Rob carefully shows you how to hold the saw and position your body to achieve precise and consistent results.

Finally, he takes you through exercises to develop the sawing skills needed to confidently master hand cut dovetails.

As a woodworking instructor, Rob has a good understanding of the challenges facing the student. He specifically addresses these difficulties which adds measurably to the instructional value of the presentation.

Combine Mastering the Dovetail Saw with a good book such as Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking or Rob’s Hand-Cut Dovetails DVD and you’re on your way to success in this rewarding endeavor.

Rob is the host of a series of woodworking videos and travels extensively conducting hand tool workshops. He and his wife Kim live in Grand Bay, New Brunswick Canada.

Originally posted Saturday, December 23rd, 2006

Bench Chisel Selection Guide

admin — Sun, 09 Nov 2008 04:35:22 +0000

We’re frequently asked for advise on bench chisel selection. Making a sound decision on an investment in chisels can be difficult when trying to compare online offerings.

Lets start with where to go for advise. A good place to start is to actually try the chisels before buying in order to get a sense of how they feel in your hand doing some practise cuts.
It’s also useful to read reviews in woodworking magazines which feature articles involving hand tools such as Woodwork, Fine Woodworking etc. Local woodworking instructors and experienced woodworkers are another good choice.
Online reviews in News Groups and woodworking web sites can be useful “if” you know the qualifications of the contributor - We often hear comments from customers voicing their confusion and frustration after reading conflicting reviews containing little substantive information about why a tool was good or bad.

OK, now you’ve done your homework and are ready to buy chisels. It’s just a matter of settling on the set - Right?

Well, unless you are very confident of your selection, we recommend buying a single chisel in a size you would use often and try it out at your leisure.
Flatten the back of the chisel, sharpen the bevel and put it to work. How does it feel in your hand doing paring work? …now use it with a hammer or mallet. How well does it hold an edge? If you’re satisfied, then proceed to get a set, or select a few more chisels in sizes to round out a set for your current needs.
If it didn’t work out, you’re only out the price of a single chisel and there are always those odd jobs which require a chisel, but not one of the really good ones.

Here’s a table we created to compare characteristics of the
chisels we offer at Craftsman Studio:

Chisel characteristic notes:

Steel - There are a variety of high carbon tool steels available which perform similarly. A2 Tool steel used by Lie-Nielsen Toolworks differs in that during the heat treating process, this steel benefits from thermal cycling (cryogenic treatment) which makes the cutting edge more long lasting.
Handle sized to blade - This feature is nice where there are a large range of blade widths.
Blade design - Tang blades have a tapered point created during the forging process which extends into the handle. Chisels of the socket design have the handle extend down into the body of the chisel. This makes it easy to replace a handle and produces a stronger chisel, but is a more costly design to produce due to the machining involved.
Sharpening of Japanese chisels requires the use waterstones (non-powered) and a bit more finesse because of their laminated construction. It’s better to learn on less expensive chisels, then graduate to these fine tools.
Suggested Skill Level - This is intended as a rough guide for those selecting chisels as a gift.

- Bill Kohr

Originally posted Sunday, December 10th, 2006

Lie-Nielsen 62 Low Angle Jack Plane - Test Drive

admin — Sun, 09 Nov 2008 04:30:18 +0000

Have you ever wished there was more information on a product to help with the decision before making a purchase? Hand planes can seem a little overly complicated to the beginning user so we created our first “Test Drive” of the Lie-Nielsen 62 Low Angle Jack Plane.

This is not so much a review as an attempt to give a sense of how the tool is set-up and ways it can be used. Since this is a simple and versatile tool, it’s a great choice for a person just getting into using hand planes.

You can click on the link above to view the Test Drive. The format is pretty much locked-in but comments on how we might improve the content as most welcome. Should you choose to post, you will need to register - your email will not be posted or shared.

Originally posted Saturday, November 25th

Tool Selection for Beginning Carvers

admin — Sun, 09 Nov 2008 04:25:35 +0000

Question: I recently completed a class with Michael Cullen on making treasure chests, boxes, etc. Some of the carving work he showed us was absolutely fantastic.

I notice that you have a wide assortment of Two Cherries carving sets. Do you have any thoughts or suggestions as to where I would start with such a new area.

I’ve watched, the Beginning Woodcarving Video by Everett Ellenwood, so I have some basic ideas as to what a V-tool, a sweep, etc. are but I’m not sure how much I really need. Can you give me any feedback on these tools, what “kind-of-basic” tools do I need to get the job done?

Thank you in advance for any advise you can offer. - details4man

Answer: Lets start with the Two Cherries Carving Tool offering.

Besides the Chip-Carving and Micro-Carving tools which are specialized in nature, there are Pro series, Euro series and Pear handle tools.
Pro seriesfull size tools are selected by professional carvers to serious beginners because they are available in a full range of sizes defined by width in millimeters, and numbered sweeps for gouges. Vee tools are forged to specified angles. Handles are sized to the tool with larger tools double-hooped to withstand heavy mallet blows. Blades are longer than the other series.
Euro series tools have octagonal handles of the same size. They are offered in a modest range of sweeps and are not built to numbered sweep standards, thus one might be described as shallow, or very shallow gouge etc. Intended for smaller work, they have shorter blades than the Pro series and are offered in widths of 10mm or less. Pear Handle tools use the same blades, sweeps etc. as the Euro series. The only difference is the handle.

You also mentioned Carving Tool Sets.

Smaller sets are popular for gifts to the person who has an interest in carving and would like to start out with quality tools which will hold an edge and are properly designed.
Those with a strong interest in carving often gravitate to the 12 and 18 piece sets because they are more economical than buying the individual tools, and there is a wide enough selection to experiment with different styles and scales of carving. These sets serve students taking classes or learning from books and videos well, because they can easily match the sweeps with those used by the instructor - something which is not possible with the Euro series tools.
We don’t offer set recommendations for students because there are just too many options, but we do offer a discount similar to the one we offer on our 18 piece set for those who wish to compose their own set of 18 or more Pro series carving tools.

Originally posted Saturday, September 23rd, 2006

San Diego Fine Woodworkers Assn. Celebrates 25 years

admin — Sun, 09 Nov 2008 04:21:00 +0000

San Diego Fine Woodworkers Association is celebrating their 25th Anniversary at the September 27th meeting featuring guest speaker Roy Underhill from the PBS Series “The Woodwright’s Shop”

September Meeting and Ticket Information

The San Diego Fine Woodworkers Association (SDFWA) is an active association of 1500 members which has meetings and events throughout the year of interest to woodworkers and aspiring fine woodworkers. Additional information is available on their website.

Originally posted Friday, September 22nd, 2006

Hello Woodworkers!

admin — Sun, 09 Nov 2008 03:15:39 +0000

Welcome to the Craftsman Studio Blog. We hope you find the content to be a helpful adjunct to our website. Here you will find a venue for information on products, events, and a dialog on matters related to woodworking hand tools.

Bill Kohr, Proprietor

Originally posted Tuesday, September 19th, 2006